Framing help cont.

Framings

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Oct 10, 2011
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Details:
Base (which will not get moulding) is 99.625"
Sides (at right angle to base) are 38.3125"
From base to peak 63.375"
Top of sides to peak 56.125

If I was descriptive enough you'll picture a house .... I need to cut the moulding and properly join the mitres at the peak and at the eaves ...
Thank you
 
Lost to years ...

Measuring angles is to inexact ....My knowledge of trig is from my youth, when I look at it now I get dizzy .... is there a simple answer? or am I over thinking this?
 
[FONT=&quot]Details:
Base (which will not get moulding) is 99.625"
Sides (at right angle to base) are 38.3125"
From base to peak 63.375"
Top of sides to peak 56.125

If I was descriptive enough you'll picture a house .... I need to cut the moulding and properly join the mitres at the peak and at the eaves ...[/FONT]

When I use the total height (63.375”), the side height (38.3125”), and the base width (99.625”) to calculate the “top of sides to peak” length, I get 55.762” instead of the 56.125” that you measured. This could be, for example, because your mirror is not quite “square.” The 90 degree angles at the bottom could be off or the side cut angles could be different or something like that.

I will do the calculations using the heights and width that you specified, but be aware that you may need some slight “ fudging” (sanding?) on final fit.

The angle at the peak should be 126.6 degrees approximately. The angles at the “eaves” should be 116.7 degrees approximately. Measure these with a protractor to double-check my calcs.

I’m assuming you’ll cut your joints at half of these values, so that’s 63.3 degrees at the peak and 58.35 degrees at the eaves. Pencil these on your molding before cutting and verify that it looks correct on the mirror.

Obviously, you cannot cut these angles with the precision I’ve given, so you might want to settle 63 at the peak and about 58 at the eaves. You could then sand material at the eaves for a final fit. Just a suggestion…

Hope that helps.
 
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